The Donostian boilermakers: tradition and festivity

Curious customs in San Sebastian? Of course they are! As in all cities and towns.

Well, or more than curious, because they are unique or only occur in specific places, to the rest of us mortals they seem curious, strange… Call it X!

And one of these curious activities or traditions are the boilermakers of San Sebastian, which is also one of the most emblematic of the city’s festive calendar.

An event full of music, colour and tradition that takes the people of San Sebastian back to the 19th century. If you want to discover what makes this festival so special, come with us on this journey through its history and its protagonists: the ‘comparsas de caldereros’ (boilermakers’ troupes).

History of boilermakers in San Sebastian

To give you a better understanding of this festival, let’s start with its origins, which, in this case, take us back to the 19th century, when San Sebastián began to adopt this tradition inspired by the itinerant groups of boilermakers, who went from village to village offering their services of repairing kitchen utensils.

These groups, known for their singing and colourful costumes, used to announce their arrival by rhythmically banging their work tools, which became a symbol of this tradition.

What was once an everyday event became a festival in 1884 on the initiative of the journalist Serafín Baroja, father of the writer Pío Baroja.

Since then, the celebration has established itself as one of the most beloved in San Sebastian, marking the start of Carnival in the city.

Music also plays a key role, as the participants sing traditional Basque songs, mostly composed by Raimundo Sarriegui, the author of many of the best-known festive tunes in Donosti.

Over the years, the Festival of the Boilermakers has evolved, but it is still an essential date in the calendar of Donostia. This event not only keeps tradition alive, but also reinforces the cultural identity of San Sebastian, becoming a unique expression of its cultural richness.

Boilermakers’ troupes

The ‘comparsas de caldereros’ are the heart and soul of the festival. These groups, made up of local residents and associations, parade through the streets and neighbourhoods of San Sebastián, filling them with music and joy.

Each troupe is distinguished by its traditional costumes, which include waistcoats, long skirts, handkerchiefs and hats, evoking the old gypsy boilermakers. Kitchen utensils, such as frying pans and saucepans, become musical instruments that set the rhythm of the songs.

The organisation of the comparsas begins months before the festival. Each group selects its songs, rehearses choreographies and prepares the costumes, taking care of every detail to keep the essence of this tradition alive. In addition, many of the comparsas include musicians who play instruments such as accordions, guitars or drums, adding a special touch to the parade.

One of the most emblematic songs performed by the comparsas is the ‘Coro de Caldereros Húngaros’ (‘Hungarian Boilermakers‘ Choir’), a cheerful and catchy tune that has become the anthem of the festival. It already speaks of the announcement of the arrival of Carnival:

Boilermakers we are from Hungary,

we come to San Sebastian.

Here Momo only sends us

to tell you that he’s coming soon.

We make up the vanguard

of the merry Carnival.

Oh, how much joy we are going to enjoy!

When and where to enjoy the boilermakers

The Boilermakers’ Festival is held every year on the first Saturday in February or the Saturday after Candlemas, marking the start of Carnival in San Sebastian. On this day, the streets of the city centre, especially the Old Town and its surroundings, fill with parades, music and spectators who don’t want to miss the spectacle.

The parade starts in the afternoon and goes through some of the most emblematic spots in the city, such as the Constitution Square, where many of the comparsas make stops to perform their songs. It is an event that attracts locals and visitors alike, creating a festive atmosphere that is hard to match.

If you plan to attend the festival, we recommend you arrive in good time to find a good place to enjoy the parade or the show and songs performed in the Constitution Square in the Old Town.

And if you’re visiting San Sebastian with your family, the children will also be able to enjoy the festive atmosphere, as many of the comparsas include activities designed for the little ones.

Tips for making the most of the party

If you are going to enjoy the Boilermakers’ Festival, here are some tips to make your experience unforgettable:

• Check the official programme: Each year, the parade route and timetables may vary. Check the official programme to make sure you don’t miss any of the key moments.
• Wear comfortable clothes: Although the festival takes place in the middle of winter, the festive atmosphere will keep you on the move. Wear clothes that are appropriate for the weather, but comfortable enough to enjoy the event.
• Join the party: Don’t hesitate to clap, sing or even dance to the rhythm of the comparsas. The Boilermakers’ festival is a celebration for everyone.

See you at the next Caldereros parade!